Three Keys to Shooting Soccer

June 28th, 2010

Are you enjoying the World Cup?  It’s a frenzy at our house, trying to watch 3-4 games a day, rooting for our favorite players, teams and countries.  It’s hard to fit in everything else in life while all this great soccer is going on.  It seems appropriate to share some keys to shooting great soccer action while we’re in the middle of World Cup.
Shooting soccer on a full sized field isn’t easy, but very possible.  If you’re trying to get action shots of a single player then it’s much easier than trying to get the entire team.  We’ll focus this blog post on how to shoot an individual player and I will try to follow up in the coming weeks on shooting the entire team, the goalie and posed photos.

Key #1 Equipment
Soccer fields are large as you know so this is a case where the bigger the lens the better.  A large lens can be very expensive, but on a sunny day even a f4.5 lens can get you great action shots.  I’ve had great luck with a sigma 50-500mm lens on sunny days and it’s even affordable.  If you position yourself properly and are willing to move more frequently even an 80-200mm can work.

Key #2 Where to Position Yourself
Let’s assume it’s a nice sunny day for soccer (not that my children had any sunny days this Spring) and you’re in place for the entire game.  The sun is your friend as well as your challenge.  You want your players face to be toward the sun so that it’s lit up and bright.  So, when only needing photos of one player I would probably shoot photos for just half the game.  The half when your player is primarily facing the sun which means the opposing goalie’s back is toward the sun, and your back as well will be toward the sun.

Key #3 Frame a Great Photo
The “beautiful game” certainly has lots of action both on and off the ball.  How do you catch the right action to ensure a great photo.  Be sure to capture the face and the ball in the frame.  Yes, that’s not easy, but your photos are always better with those two things.  The player without the ball just isn’t that interesting and if you can see the ball and not the player’s face your photo won’t be as interesting either.  Of the thousands of soccer photos we’ve sold 99%+ of them have included the players face and the ball.

See you on the pitch!

Scott

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How to recover your lost photos

April 23rd, 2010

At one point or another many photographers will inadvertently loose some photos either by a hardware/software failure or user error. Either way it can be a horrible experience. Hopefully you are backing up on a regular basis so to not loose your entire photo collection. The one problem with photo backup is that you have to get the photos to your computer to back them up. What happens if you are out in the field and accidentally delete one of your memory cards? Depending on the size of the card you may have lost hundreds of photos. Luckily, more than likely you can still recover all of the lost photos.

There are many photo recovery tools out there today, many cost money and a few are free. I always prefer free even if the software is a little hard to understand at first glance. I’ve spent time and time again looking for a good and free solution for photo recovery and I finally found something. PhotoRec is a free open source project that is designed to recover your lost files from a hard drive or memory card. It is also available for many operating systems including Windows, Linux and Mac.

To test the software out I took a 512MB memory card and formatted it in the camera, deleting all of the photos. Also note that previous to formatting, the camera reported the card as being about half way full. Now that we have a freshly formatted card, lets see how PhotoRec does as far as recovering those photos.

Drive Select 

As you can see from the screenshot above this is not your typical looking Windows application. If you remember the days of DOS it will look much more like a DOS application than your traditional Windows program. You must use the keyboard to navigate around the application but luckily for us it is fairly straight forward.

The first window that comes up will ask you what drive you have your memory card in. You should be able to recognize the drive by the size PhotoRec reports back. You may also find the label of the drive helpful as well. In my situation I needed to select the third option which was reported as a 512 MB drive with the label of Generic Flash HS-CF.

Partition Select 

The next window asks for the partition table type. If you are using a Windows PC like I am, you should select the Intel option.

Partition Type

Next up is the partition you want it to search in. If you are using a memory card you most likely will only have two options here. The entire disk and the partition your camera makes. My camera is a Canon 10d and you can see in the screenshot that the camera has labeled the partition as EOS_DIGITAL. This is usually the name of the drive that shows up in Windows when you first put your memory card in the computer.

File System Select

Now you need to tell PhotoRec what type of filesystem it is. Again if you are using Windows it will be the “Other” option.

Search Options

Now it will ask if you want to search the entire card or just the free space of the card. If you still have photos that you can see on the card you can choose to only look in the free space. If you want to be sure it finds everything possible, you may want to tell it to search everything.

Recovery Location

The next thing you need to do is tell PhotoRec where you want to put the files it finds. Once you are in the directory you would like the files to be copied to you can press the “Y” button to indicate Yes this is where I want my recovered files to go.

Recovery Status

Now you can sit back and wait for the files to be copied. Once the program is finished copying the files over you can go to the folder you specified to take a look at them.

Recovered Files

Here you can see the deleted files it was able to retrieve. It was not only able to recover the files I had just deleted but also files that had been deleted many months ago. As long as you have not used up the space that that your old photos had used the program should be able to recover them. This is an important point to realize. If you accidentally format your memory card, do not shoot any new photos to it. The old files are still there but once you start taking new photos it will start using up the space the old photos reside on removing the capability of recovering them.

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Meta Data part 3

April 19th, 2010

Continuing a discussion of meta data and the additional information that a camera attaches to each photo you take and how that can assist you in becoming a better sports photographer.

clip_image002

CCD width = 28.12mm

This is a calculated value that is of no use at this time.

Exposure Time = .003 (1/320)

This is the shutter speed, how fast your shutter opened and closed. Exposure time is controlled by the shutter speed. Along with aperture this determines the amount of light that reaches the sensor. Shorter shutter speeds are used to freeze fast-moving subjects.

Aperture = f/4.5

The aperture or size of the opening of the hole that allows light onto the sensor. Remember the smaller the number the larger the opening so I could have made the opening larger by going to 2.8.

ISO = 3200

The ISO for this shot was set very fast at 3200. Remember this is essentially the “speed of the film” and although there is trade-offs you typically want faster to freeze action and motion.

Exposure bias = 0.00

This is typically modified with a small dial or button with the + or – sign. In this shot it was not adjusted, but this meta-data shows you if you used this feature to underexpose or overexpose the photo. Useful in high contrast situations and an easy change to make.

Metering Mode = Matrix

This represents the mode your camera is set in to “meter” or “calculate” the exposure from the current light conditions. Matrix mode in the Cannon camera evaluates the light in all zones of the frame for its calculation. Other common settings are “spot” which calculates from one very small area and center weighted which concentrates on the middle of the frame.

Exposure = Normal Program

Exposure refers to the lightness or darkness of the photo. I shot this with the exposure mode set to normal. Most cameras will have auto, shutter priority, aperture priority and manual.

Thumbnail = 160 x 120 pixels

This is the size of the preview thumbnail that is included in jpeg files. So within the header of this photo is a thumbnail that is 160×120 pixels in size.

JPEG Quality = 98 (422)

JPEG Quality represents how much compression has been performed. The higher this number the less compression that was performed. The maximum number on this camera is 100 so 98 is quite high indicating less compression and higher quality. Although 100 is the maximum number it does not mean no compression was performed.

Unique ID

I’m not aware of the ID being used by many cameras or software programs at this time

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Sports Photography Preparation is the Key

April 5th, 2010

 

It doesn’t matter if you are going to shoot your child’s baseball game or the High School state championship football game,  you will most likely get better sports photos if you are prepared. There are a couple of things that you should take into account when getting ready for a sports photo shoot.

Get your gear ready

This might be the most important. You don’t want to get to your destination, have everything setup to find that your battery is nearly dead. This and many other mishaps can be avoided by simply getting all the equipment together the night before the big event. This includes blank memory cards, charged batteries, lenses and camera. Depending on whether you will be indoors or outdoors and the weather you may have additional accessories that are required.

Whatever the equipment requirements are it is always a good idea to get them all ready and packed so when you are ready to go and can just grab your gear and be on your way, confident that you have what you need. You may even want to make a list of what you need for different sporting events so it’s easy to bring out that specific list when you are planning on a shoot.

Scout out the location

Obviously you aren’t going to be able to check out a location before hand if it’s out of state or country, but when possible it’s a great idea to check out the location you plan on photographing at beforehand. A great time for this may be something as simple taking a family member practicing at the facility or location.  You should definitely check out the location, walk around and find great spots that will make a great photo.

You don’t necessarily have to check out the location a day or two early. If it’s a sporting event like volleyball, you can get there a half hour early so you get the perfect spot in the stands. If it’s something like a soccer game, it may not be too important as you may be moving to different positions on the side lines as the game progresses, but you may actually miss some shots of the kids practicing (that’s right, you can get some great shots before the game actually starts).

Remember these tips and you won’t have to worry if you forgot your flash card at home, or worrying about getting a great spot to shoot from.

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Put your photos in motion

March 22nd, 2010

Just because you shoot still photos doesn’t mean they have to stay that way. In recent years it has become easier to take your photos and turn them into a video slideshow. This can be a fun way to show off your photos in a different and fun way. There are a number of programs out there you can use to create a fantastic slideshow and many are free. If you are a regular visitor to this blog, you know I’m a big fan of the Windows Live family of applications. It just so happens that this suite of applications comes with a video editing solution in the form of Windows Live Movie Maker.

Windows Live Movie Maker

The process of creating a slideshow of your favorite sports photos couldn’t be easier. Once you have opened up Movie Maker, drag your photos to the right hand portion of the window, save the video and your done. That’s right if you just want a basic slideshow that’s all there is to it.

Many times you will want to add transitions, titles and music to your video. Let’s take a look at how to accomplish this.

If you want a track of music on your computer that you want to play during your slideshow click the Add Music button and select the music track you have saved on your hard drive.

add music

Now to add a title and transitions you can do it manually or use the AutoMovie button to have the program do all the hard stuff in less than a second! After clicking the AutoMovie button it will do a number of things for you. It creates a title, credits, transitions and pan and zoom effects for each photo you have in your slideshow. It will also time the photos duration so that the video ends when the music track you have selected ends. You can now double click on the title and credit sequences to edit the text that displays at the beginning and end of the video.

Once you are ready to save your video you can either publish it directly to YouTube, create a DVD or even save it out as a 1080P HD video.

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Meta Data for Sports Photography – Part 2

March 8th, 2010

This is a continuing discussion of meta data, the additional information that a camera attaches to each photo you take, and how that can assist you in becoming a better sports photographer. Since Picasa is free and currently my favorite photo application let’s review the meta data it provides and what that data means. Below I have displayed the meta data for a photo which I obtained by right clicking on the photo and selecting properties.

At the top of the box you see a number of meta data information that we are used to looking at such as filename, location, size and date The additional meta data which we don’t often look at but which can be helpful in improving your sports photography comes next. I will explain each item:

Dimension = 3456 x 2304 pixels

This particular photo is 3,456 pixels wide (horizontal) by 2,304 pixels high (vertical). Read the article on pixels to better understand, but essentially the photo is made up of little dots and this represents how many little dots there are.

Camera Make = Canon

I took this photo with a camera made by Canon

Camera Model = Canon EOS-1D Mark III

This is the model of the Canon camera I used which is an EOS-1D Mark III (sweet camera)

Camera Date = 2009-12-03 18:20:11

I took the photo on December 12th 2009 at 6:20pm.

Resolution = 3456 x 2304

Notice this is the same as the “dimension” representing how many pixels or little dots make up the picture.

Orientation = Normal

This field stores the orientation of the photo. Newer cameras will detect if the photo was taken horizontally or vertically. Actually 8 different positions are supported and more and more photo software supports this field which helps to ensure that whenever you are viewing your photo you are viewing it right-side up.

Flash = Not Used

I did not use a flash for this photo

Focal Length = 135.0mm

I was using a 70-200mm lens and this number represents the focal length the lens was set at. The larger this number the greater is the magnification of distant objects. The lower this number the wider the angle of view.

35mm equivalent = 173mm

Because the CCD of this digital camera (and most are the same), is smaller than the sensitive area of 35mm film, this number represent the equivalent magnification for a 35mm camera. In other words it would have been the same as shooting 35mm film with the lens set at 173mm.

 

image

In my next blog I will finish describing the rest of the fields.

Scott

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Meta Data for Sports Photography (Exif) – Part 1

February 22nd, 2010

 

One of the beautiful things about digital photography is that with each photo you take the camera records all kinds of information about your camera settings. Information that if you know how to view and understand can help you take better photos the next time. This information or data is often referred to as EXIF data or Meta data. Simply put it’s additional data or information that is included in the file with your photo. My next few posts will explain this meta data, how to view it, use it, change it and improve your photography with it.

This information can’t be seen as you look at the photo, but most photo viewers are able to display this data. A couple of pieces of meta data we are all familiar with is the file name and date. Those pieces of information are attached to your photo and is information you see and use regularly. You can of course change the file name, and it’s also possible to change and add other meta data with the right photo viewer or editor.

Did you know though that beyond just the simple file name and date you can also see information about the settings of your camera at the time you took the photo. This includes aperture setting, the shutter speed, focal length, quality, resolution and much more. Imagine how useful this information is once your get home and want to see which photos turned out best and why! Looking at this additional data is a great way to improve your photography.

Pretty much any photo viewing and editing software will provide you a view of this information. Programs from Adobe including Photoshop, Photoshop Elements provide this data as well as free products such as Picasa will also provide you with this information. In addition to photo editing programs your operating system, such as Windows 7 will also provide you with a quick view of some of the basic meta data such as ISO and aperture settings. Below you will see three examples of metadata displayed, the first is a screen shot from Picasa the second from Exif Pilot and the third is Windows default information.

clip_image002

clip_image004

meta data

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Converting your photos to black & white

February 5th, 2010

If you haven’t spent much time in a photo editor you may be thinking there is only one way to convert your photos to black & white. In the past many people would just turn the saturation down to zero and be done with the conversion. This works but you can actually get a photo with more impact by using the existing color in the photo to convert it to black & white.

Let’s take the following photo for a reference.

Now let’s see what the photo looks like if we just take the saturation of it down to zero.

As you can see the whole image starts to blend together and just the players pants really stand out. Using the black & white adjustment layer tool in Photoshop you can adjust how the color of the photo effects the gray levels. If you wanted your blue sky to have a very dark look to it, you could drag the blue sliders to the left. If you wanted to brighten it up, slide them to the right. Now let’s take a look at what we can do with our photo.

psbwsettings

Below is the result we get by using the above settings.

You can now see that we were able to darken the background a bit and give much more contrast on the player.

Luckily you don’t actually need to own a copy of Photoshop to take advantage of this technique. Some of the free solutions are including basic functionality. Below is a shot of the original photo with the Red Black & White filter applied to it in Windows Live Photo Gallery.

LivePhotoGallery 

The next time you want to convert your photos into black & white I highly recommend looking into using some of these features.

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9 Challenges

January 18th, 2010

Sports photography is the most difficult photography to master.  You are faced with a myriad of challenges.  As with any challenge those that overcome the greatest obstacle gain the greatest reward and thus it is with sports photography.  Read our list of top nine sports photography challenges:

Where Venue/Location
Sports photography does not let you choose the location of your shoot.  You don’t get a choice on where the competition or event will be held.   You are stuck with where the event is being held whether it’s an old musty school gym, an outdoor field with next to the freeway or a performance halls.  You as the sports photographer will have to adapt to the venue and figure a way to make it work.

When
As a sports photographer you will not be able to choose the time of day that you take your photos.  You must shoot the competition when it’s being held which means you may be shooting at 6:00am in the morning or 11:00pm at night or anytime in between.  It’s not always a time when it’s convenient for you, but the only way to capture those great photos is to be there.

Who
You obviously can select "who" you want to take photos of, but you don’t have control over the team they are competing against, when that individual participates, and where in the even they participate.  The quality of the event is often determined by the skill of the competition, some athletes may not participate the entire event and may be in the back or a position that makes them difficult to photograph.

Lighting

You’ve got to love those old school gyms with lousy lighting.  School gyms are typically quite dim, never with sufficient light and often have a harsh yellow tone from wonderful florescent lights.  Your challenge, capture photos that are bright enough, without blur or unnatural colors.

Weather

Sorry, they won’t reschedule that championship match for the weather to improve.  You will be at the mercy of whatever weather is occurring.  You will be dealing with wind, dust, rain, mud, snow, cold and heat.

Obstacles
Have you ever bought "obstructed" view seats?  They don’t make for good photos.  As a Sports Photographer you will want the best position possible to take photos, but that’s not always easy to come by.  There may be physical obstructions hindering you including people and depending on the event there may be rules that will prohibit you from the ideal positions.

Equipment
All cameras are not created equal, those point and shoot cameras are just not going to get the job done when shooting sports photography.  In fact, many cameras will not work well for shooting sports and you will need special lenses to assist you.  In addition to quality lenses and camera bodies there are many other accessories you will need.

Framing
Framing your photos for sports photography is not easy!  Unlike portrait photography you don’t get a chance to pose your subjects.  You don’t get a to tell the athlete’s to STOP, do that again when I’m ready.  Not only that but your subjects are moving and not remaining in once place so you have to anticipate when and where the action will be. 

Timing
Once you see the great sports moment it’s too lake to capture it.  Sports photographers must be ready at every moment and even anticipate the action and great moment to have a chance at capturing it.

There are many challenges to being a sports photographer, but they are all worth it when you capture those great sports moments.  You can learn to do it like the pros by following guidelines and techniques found on this site.

ProPix Photography
The Sports Photographers

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Access your photos from anywhere

January 1st, 2010

Were you ever out of town and needed access to your photos on your home computer? This can be extremely frustrating if you have no way of getting to the photos you need. With a Windows Home Server (WHS) and Internet connection, it’s never been easier to accomplish.

There are a number of ways to get a hold of WHS. You can build your own system and put the software on yourself or, as I would recommend, buy a box already put together by a vendor such as HP.

When you run the setup wizard for the first time you are asked to create a user account. You can specify whether this user has access to the home server over the Internet or not. If you allow this account to gain access, you can setup a web address you type in just like a normal website such as myserver.homeserver.com. If you have an HP WHS you are presented with a home screen such as the one below.

home screen

If you haven’t setup the photo or media streamer, you can use the “Access Files on Server” options. The WHS machine will then ask you to login using the user you setup at the beginning of the setup process.

Once you are logged in, you are presented with a file browser similar to the one you use to view files in Windows. You can navigate to the folders you want to view your files in, download files, create folders and even upload new files. This can be extremely useful if you are on a shoot and want to backup your files from earlier that day.

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